Blog Swap and Baby Socks [!!]

Today I’m participating in the Ultimate Blog Swap. You’ll find me posting over at The Linar Studio hosted by the talented Lee Currie about how to find a little inspiration in a few quick steps, and I’m excited to welcome Diana from Saving by Making to teach us a thing or two about knitting adorable little socks for adorable little feet. :) 


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I absolutely love knitting baby items because they're so fast to finish. And baby socks are some of my favorites because they're useful, look cute, and are a great way to try out new yarns.

One caveat: to knit socks, you've got to use double-pointed needles. [Insert terrified scream here, maybe?! :)] If you've never used double-pointed needles before, it's time to learn. I know they look intimidating (and a tangled mess!) when you see someone else do it, but honestly, they're not that bad. 

The best way to learn how to use double-pointed needles is just to try it with video instruction to help you out. Don't worry about trying to understand it all beforehand--just jump in there and do it! When you actually have needles and yarn in your hands, it will suddenly make a lot more sense.

Jimmy Beans Wool and The KnitWitch both have good videos on using double-pointed needles. Check those out, maybe find a few more videos, and keep trying until you figure out what you're doing. Practice several times before you jump into the sock, or you might get frustrated :) (Or else just be willing to unravel your sock a few times until you get it right.) Once you're pretty comfortable with using the double-pointed needles, grab some sock yarn and get started!



What you'll need:

  • set of 4 double-pointed needle size 3 (3.25 mm) 
  • sock yarn (it should say "sock weight" on the labelit's nice and thin) 
  • tapestry needle for finishing the toe and weaving in the ends.

Techniques we'll use:

  • this stretchy cast on: the cuff of the sock needs to be very stretchy, or it won't go on over the foot easily
  • knitting/purling: of course :)
  • slip 1: pass a stitch from one needle to the other without knitting or purling it
  • knit 2 together/purl 2 together (k2 tog/p2 tog): a type of decrease
  • pick up and knit: adding stitches back onto the needles
  • slip, slip, knit (ssk): another type of decrease; kind of like knitting 2 together, but backwards
  • Kitchener stitch: a way to finish the toe of the sock so it doesn't leave a ridge

Basic Baby Sock

Cast on 24 stitches, then put 8 stitches on each of three needles.
Join to work in the round. (Basically, just start knitting. :) )

Cuff:
K1, P1 every row until work measures at least 2.5 inches (I use about 15 rows).

Heel Flap:

Now we'll divide the stitches so that you can work on just the heel portion.
 -the needle you just finished becomes Needle 3 (I'll refer to these numbers later).
 -the needle you're about to start using is Needle 1.
 -the other is Needle 2.

Take 4 stitches from Needle 2 and slip them onto Needle 1. Now you have 12 stitches on Needle 1. You'll work the heel flap on Needle 1--no more knitting in the round for the next few rows.

For 12 rows:
Odd rows: slip 1, knit across.
Even rows: slip 1, purl across.
This creates a square of stockinette stitch that will become the heel of the sock.

Turn the Heel:
Now we'll do something called "turning the heel." Jimmy Beans Wool has a great video demonstrating the whole technique, if you'd like to see exactly what we'll be doing in the next few rows. But follow these instructions--she's using a different size sock in the video.
Next row: slip 1, knit 7, k2 tog, knit 1; turn work (There'll be an extra stitch on the end; just leave it there.) 
Next row: slip 1, purl 5, p2 tog, purl 1; turn work
Next row: slip 1, knit 5, k2 tog, knit 1; turn work
Next row: slip 1, purl 5, p2 tog, purl 1 Next row: knit

Rest of Sock:

Now we'll add the stitches on the other needles back into the rotation. To do that, we have to pick up stitches along the edge of the heel flap.
Pick up and knit 8 stitches along the side of the heel flap. Put the first two on Needle 1, the last six on Needle 2.
Knit across Needles 2 and 3.
Using Needle 3, pick up and knit 6 stitches along the other side of the heel flap. Using your spare needle, pick up two more (for a total of 8, just like the other side). You have all 4 needles in commission now.

Next 6 rounds:

Needle 1: knit across (use the needle with the two stitches to do this the first time)
Needle 2: k1, k2 tog, knit across
Needle 3: knit to last 3 stitches; ssk, k1
After you do that for 6 rounds, you should have 24 stitches remaining. (If not, keep going until you have 24 left. :) )
Continue knitting in the round until foot measures 2.5 inches from the heel, or as long as the foot you're making the sock for.

Decrease for Toe:
Next row: (k1, k2 tog, k6, ssk, k1) twice
Next row: knit around
Next row: (k1, k2 tog, k4, ssk, k1) twice
Next row: knit around
You should have 16 stitches left. Put them on two needles, so there are 8 on each needle.

Finish the Toe: Graft together using the Kitchener stitch. Weave in ends. Go find a baby and put your sock on him or her. Marvel at your ability to create a sock! :)


Sarah :: Plucky in Love

Sarah, aka "Plucky", blogs on the reg, unless she's on vacation or there's a Pretty Little Liars marathon or she's mulling over the implications of the phrase "on fleek." She can't live without iced coffee, a portable phone charger, or equal pay. Say hello!

2 comments:

  1. How adorable! I taught myself how to knit last year--but I didn't get very far {life got busy again}. These make me want to pick it back up!

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  2. Thank you very much for a wonderful, simple pattern. :)

    ReplyDelete